South Africa

Oh my, South Africa was my favorite port so far for so many reasons! As with Spain, we are fortunate to have many people with South African connections on board and they did a wonderful job of preparing us for the port. As I told you one woman was Desmond Tutu’s Personal Assistant for 22+ years. She was directly involved in the Truth and Reconciliation Commission. After Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 27 years and finally freed, the commission met in order to promote healing for the country. Over 2200 stories were collected of people who suffered from the apartheid system. There was finally acknowledgement that these atrocities happened. Mandela was elected President. After Mandela resigned and Mbeki was elected there was great hope for the future and now there are massive disappointments. Money that was to be used to provide housing, education and services for people was used in the arms deals, arms that were not needed or used. One of our professors is very involved in exposing this. 1000 people per day of dying of AIDS though many are still AIDS denialists. There has been some progress. A leading judge has gone public about his AIDS. A new drug has been successful in stemming the automatic transmission of AIDS from mother to child. 18% of the children of South Africa are AIDS orphans. The population of South Africa is 8% white, 14% colored, and 78% black. Colored is the term they use for the lighter skinned often more middle class people who resulted from the intermarriage of white slave owners and their Indonesian and Malay slaves. The unemployment rate is 38-40%. The education system is three leveled, paralleling the racial breakdown. Math and science were first introduced in the black schools in 1992. There is so much more to share but that will wait.
We had one day in Cape Town before going on our four day safari. Our ship pulled right up to the V & A Waterfront (Victoria and Albert). It looked a lot like Baltimore. Hóg and I enjoyed some shopping, good coffee finally, beer at the German Beer Garden, early dinner at Quay Four, and then a night at the local theater to see Pictures of You. We were guests of the local opera season director, well known to our program because of his previous SAS voyages.
Early the next morning we headed out for safari, two flights and two rides later we arrived at Manyeleti Game Reserve. The second airport, Hoedspruit, had a terminal the size of one living room, two couches and 2 chairs. Manyeleti was the most delightful place. Everything was thought of for us, quite a luxury camping experience. Our tent was enormous, king sized bed with mosquito netting, sofa, full bathroom with double shower. In the morning guests are awakened by a drum beat at 5:30. Shortly after that your coffee, tea or cocoa are brought to your tent with rusks, carried on the head of the server. At 6:00 a.m. the game drives depart. We were on the roads of the reserve for 3+ hours. A second drive went out daily from 4:30 until 7:30 or 8:00. In between we would eat, nap, swim in the pool and relax. No drive was ever disappointing. We saw a dazzle of zebras, a herd of buffalo, numerous giraffes, a parade of elephants and finally, after searching and chasing, lions and leopards. In between there were impalas, rabbits, springbok, rhinos, hippos, wildebeests, waterbucks, bushbucks, vultures, golden orb spiders, many birds, heron, storks, owls, and the beautiful turquoise European roller. Only 20 people from our ship were on this trip which was perfect. We went out in three 4x4 vehicles with a ranger driving and a tracker sitting out over the left front headlight to spot.
The story of the male lions was the most extreme. We had been tracking them for several drives. The rangers talk to each other from car to car to give each other leads. We were told about the male lions and had to chase across the reserve to get to them; that ride was a hoot. We finally arrived and could just see the lions about 100 meters away. After a long period of watching and waiting they stood and did a roaring duet, back and forth to each other. Then they walked toward the water near us. Our ranger backed up to the water hole. Suddenly I saw the lion only 2 meters from our vehicle. He drank and then walked right behind our vehicle. The other lion did the same. We were scared and excited as were the other three girls in our vehicle. Most of us missed out pictures because we were so shocked. I was afraid to set off the flash so close to their eyes. The two lions then walked off. We all breathed again with relief and then moved on. We talked about it for the rest of the evening and back at the camp bar with the others. The energy after the drives was exciting as we all shared stories of our finds. On the last morning we finally caught up with the elusive leopard and her two cubs after a very patient waiting period. Again they walked very close to our vehicle, this time we got the pictures. We totally loved the safari experience.
Back at the camp we enjoyed gourmet meals provided by Mama G (Gladys). All meal times are announced by drum beat. Mama G has moved around among the different camps and they are thrilled now to have her at Manyeleti. Breakfast was made to order for each guest. Lunch and dinner were both three courses, displayed beautifully. Two great dinners were ostrich on polenta and lamb shanks in a wine reduction with mashed potatoes and vegetables. Guess what, those little ears of pickled corn actually start out fresh! I could go on and on about the food but I will tell you more when I see you. It is hard to return to ship cuisine after this treat.
Others on ship reported service experiences as well as other safaris. Many students went to the townships. Don’t think townships as in the USA. These are shantytowns. If I remember correctly, the current euphemism is ‘unauthorized settlements.’ These are very poor sections right outside of Cape Town. People live in single room homes made of corrugated metal and scrap wood. Their homes are much smaller than our tents were. 1.6 million people live in Cape Flats. The situation is embarrassing to the country and critical but those who live here do indicate that it is improving slowly. South Africa is known as the Mother Country because it takes nine months for anything to happen. Elections on April 22 will be significant for the future.
We love hearing from you. Messages from home are very special. If I have not written to you I may not have your email address here. If you write I promise to answer.

Namibia

Our first entry into a country below the equator was Namibia on February 14. Namibia has only been independent since 1990. It is twice as big as California and has a population of 2 million. The US imports nuclear fuels from Namibia. Our port was Walvis Bay, pronounced Val-fish Bay. Like Casablanca, it is a large industrial port, it took about 30 minutes just to walk out of the port. Like much of Africa, Namibia has a small wealthy class and a large poor class, very poor. There is no middle class. A girls’ choir came to the foot of the gangway of the ship to welcome us. They sang and danced for us while the ship was cleared and passports distributed. There were about twenty girls who we later learned are all AIDS orphans. It was a very touching Semester at Sea moment for all of us as we saw land for the first time in days and were serenaded by the group. When I got off the ship I took the opportunity to pass out postcards and pencils from Philadelphia. The girls were most appreciative. Later the young singers came on board and were hosted by a group of students. One of the students took a few girls to her cabin and gave them some toys she had brought along for this type of interchange. The girls were awed by the cabin itself. Then they asked to go to a second cabin. That student did not have toys set aside but the girls asked for her crayons which they had not seen before and for a photo of the student and her father. The student suggested that she cut the photo in half and just give her own picture and she would keep her father’s photo. A young girl asked if she could keep the whole picture because she does not see families together. The student was struggling to think of what else she could give that would be special. It finally hit her; she went to her closet and took out the dress that she brought for the Ambassadors’ Ball on ship. The young girl put it on and was so excited. That dress will probably be passed around for years and the student will never forget the moment.
We signed up for a camping trip into the desert to see the dunes and the stars. It was a long drive to our destination. On the way we stopped to see the Kuiseb Canyon. Lunch was in the desert, provided by our drivers. Later in the trip it poured rain, which is not unusual for February there but not what we expected in the desert. On arrival at Agama River Camp we got set up in our two-man tents, similar to what we use at Falcon Ridge. The owner, Jonathan, welcomed us to his bar and social rooms where we enjoyed South African wines. (His bar reminded us of Bubbles Bar in Portugal.) Over the two nights at Agama we had quite a lot of conversation with him and his fiancé, Monique. They will be married at their home in December. There is no other home or business within 10 km of their place. Some of the discussion was around AIDS. 30% of the population of Namibia has AIDS with little help or medication available for most. We also discussed the social situation, specifically as related to his business. He has five full time employees. He provides housing and is required to hire on a year round basis; seasonal workers are not allowed. He has gone through 55 people in two years to get the 5 he has. The biggest problem is that the men drink until they drop every night. They come up with all kinds of ways to get beer and liquor from having the food service delivery people bring it to riding a bike a great distance to get it. The divorce rate for whites is 60% in Namibia. For blacks there is no figure to compare to; many never marry or have two wives, one in the city and one in the rural areas. Sadly all of the rain led to cloudy nights and we were unable to appreciate the stars over Namibia. This was more than made up for in South Africa.
On February 15 we had our adventure in the vast Namib Desert. We drove to Sossusvlei to see the sand dunes. We walked 6 km into the desert. Most of our group climbed to the top of the highest dune (250 meters high!). The dunes are beautiful and photographs are gorgeous because they show the shadows on the different faces. As hikers climb up over the day they destroy the smooth surfaces of the sand but they are recreated every night by the winds. We walked part way out but by then we were in the heat of mid day in the desert so we took 4x4s the rest of the way. Lunch was offered back at our bus area. In the afternoon we went on to Sesriem Canyon. Sesriem means six belts as it took that many belts tied together for a bucket to reach the water at the canyon’s base.
Upon returning to Walvis Bay we had time for a walk through town and a bit of shopping. Just outside the port many vendors were selling local crafts. The most interesting were the Ovahimbas. This tribe lives in the north; they are the ones you may have seen who put a paste of red ochre and butter on their skin and in their hair to protect it from the sun. They wear no clothes and live without the conveniences of electricity, running water and even without plastic! They still carry water in gourds. Some people on the trip flew to their area and spent time with them. The photos and videos are wonderful. One of our group was trying to find something to share in her bag and came up with lotion. She put some in the kids’ hands. They were inclined to lick it but she showed them to put it on their skin. They more enjoyed putting it on her skin. When one SAS person went to take their pictures the women quickly put on necklaces for show but still no clothing.

Shipboard life- After the ports the students have a Reflections session where they tell their stories from the ports. I find them very interesting. Most are the life changing stories of relating to children, working in Operation Hunger, building for Houses for Humanity. The students are very moved by these experiences, often their first of the kind.
Since the last entry we were invited to the Captain’s dinner. This was a formal (at least for this ship) event, including cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, followed by a formal dinner complete with full service, linens and many pieces of flatware. It is also possible to have a special occasion dinner on the ship by prior reservation. Our group did that once already and it was quite nice. An even better meal than the Captain’s Dinner, again with full service and a lovely menu. I am continuing with yoga on all days at sea. Still very difficult but it is supposed to be work. One more funny story. They did the first random drug test at sea, 5 students and me. What? I passed but it got down to the last two of us and there was some technical problem that delayed results. Pretty funny. I said, “OK, I had a martini right before I came here.” No problem, but the last girl, who has become a friend, tested positive due to smoking before departure. They will give her a second random test in the future to confirm her story. Meanwhile our group is thanking me for taking one for the team. February 28 is the Sea Olympics, all day on the ship. I think there are 6-8 teams competing in a variety of silly and serious events. I signed up for synchronized swimming because it is easily the funniest event of the day.
They just had the midterm for the Global Studies class, required of all students. 100 multiple choice questions from all of the morning lectures. There was a lot of gnashing of teeth, whining and the like. Global Studies is heavy on science and many of the students are not used to science courses. Boohoo! Since we do not have to take it Lisa went to the gym to exercise. It’s usually difficult to get on any piece of equipment in the morning.

Our extended family

Morocco

In order to keep up with the times changes, we were instructed to advance our clocks by one hour on most nights on the way to Spain. As we headed to Morocco we were instructed to retard our clocks by one hour. Our arrival at Casablanca was delayed by one day as rough seas held us up outside of Gibraltar, our refueling stop. When we arrived in port we immediately boarded a bus for Marrakech. Our first stop was the Jardin Majorelle. These gardens were created by Jacques Majorelle, one of the most important plant collectors of the early 20th century. Yves Saint Laurent later acquired the property and restored the gardens. Lunch of braised lamb shank tagine and an eggplant salad followed. Vanilla yogurt in small glass jars was for dessert. We then moved on to the medina, Jemaa el Fna Square at the height of the day. This area was filled with hundreds of souks, small open air shops selling local crafts, scarves, clothing, foods, jewelry, lamps, anything and everything. Several stalls just had one man with several old tires where he was making various pieces from them. One man was carving a spindle as he spun it with his bare feet on a rod. Another stall just had mint, at least two cubic yards of mint, for the tea. The market area was loud, relentless, a total cacophony. Snake charmers and monkey handlers sought our attention and our cash, as did drummers, stringed instrument players, orange juice sellers and spice merchants. It was totally wild and dirty; beggars with their babies sitting on the ground, bicyclers came along right behind you. I do not think I can really convey the scene. Many of the students felt afraid in the frenzy. We spent about an hour in an herbal medicine shop sitting on wooden benches among hundreds of jars. The owner explained how many natural substances are used for curative purposes. Most of us bought some samples to try. We moved on to see Palace Bahia. As in Spain these are Arab design structures, gorgeous cedar ceilings, gilded and painted. The patterns in the tile work are geometric. No design can include a human or animal representation as only God can make those.
We later checked into our overnight hotel. We could have a drink there but many places, including the restaurants we went to, do not serve alcohol in keeping with Muslim practice. If you drink you should not pray for 40 days. That is because the angels will smell the alcohol on you and not hover near you. Praying after drinking is “like pouring water on the desert,” useless. That night we went to Chez Ali, somewhat like an Arab Disneyworld. We had a full dinner including a small meatball and fried egg appetizer, a chicken & vegetable couscous, and huge plates of fresh fruit. This was followed by a horse show that featured riding acrobatics, guns blasting, and indigenous musicians.
On the second day we drove into the Ourika Valley of the High Atlas Mountains, where the Berbers live. We went to one large but simple home where a four generation family has lived for 200 years. It had two levels, dirt floors and an outhouse. We were treated to mint tea and homemade bread with butter, honey and olive oil accompaniments there. I gave two small girls pens and paper which they used immediately. We then continued to drive through the red mountains, making a few stops for pictures and purchases. We went back to the medina in Marrakech for lunch and shopping time in the markets before departure. Bargaining is fun but really quite a skill to develop. One of the professors gave a quick session on bartering before we reached Morocco.
The third day Hóg and I stayed in Casablanca. This is the third largest port in Africa after Cape Town and Alexandria and the largest city in Morocco. We got an early start with three student friends. First stop was the La Mezquita Hassan II, a new mosque built in only six years, 1987-1993. This is a huge mosque, the main room alone has 57 Murano glass chandeliers. Muslims are to pray 5 times a day for 10-15 minutes at a time. They can do this wherever they are but many get to the mosque, over 105,000 on Fridays. Once a week they should be cleansed in the baths at the mosque. Women pray in a separate area of the mosque. After a tea stop we began our walking trip through the rest of Casablanca. We managed to be picked up by an unauthorized guide who made the day for us. He took us through the old medina, and into the food stalls. These could be as large as a stall selling all kinds of dried fruits and nuts or as small as a mat on the ground with a man selling 20 carrots and part of a squash already cut into family sized pieces. These market areas were smaller than in Marrakech and without the music and acrobats. We went on through the city to see other sites, find a shop that I was looking for, replenish our liquor (in a tiny shop that we never would have found), and then on to lunch. Lunch was in a very nice French-Arab restaurant. French and Arabic are both spoken in Morocco. Our guide ate with us. He confessed to smoking hash and at times missing prayer because his friends twist his arm and get him to drink! At the end of the day we learned that he is not an authorized tour guide, not a big surprise. We had paid him for the service and bought his lunch. He had to pay a bribe to the Tourism Police because he should not have taken us around. Just another day in Morocco.
As we left the port of Casablanca we hit very rough water. Again some furniture was relocated and a few people were hurt, but some because they were being reckless. I managed to stay in my seat this time but had a job to do to reset things in our room later. Last night we had dinner with our extended family. They are Nichole, Amanda, Elise, Penn, Collin, Grace, Emily and Ashley. We had a birthday cake to celebrate two birthdays, Grace’s and Malachi’s. Our walking and talking grandson is one now! Today we are on our way to Namibia. We have stopped for refueling in Dakar, Senegal. Since I had lunch on the deck in the warm sun I can say that I had lunch in Dakar, though, in fact, no one is allowed off the ship. The brief time here will allow for a more comfortable daily-while-at-sea yoga session; the balancing will not be as difficult as it usually is when we are rocking. We have crossed the Tropic of Cancer and are headed for the equator. Today is Neptune Day, no classes while we all make the crossing, some will shave their heads. Hóg has been growing his hair for the event. Once we cross, we are no longer polliwogs; we are shellbacks.

Spain

We have just finished four days in Spain, our first port; we are back on the ship and on the way to Morocco. But first some family news, good family news. Gabe has accepted a new position for Worldmark, a sister company of Wyndham, in Seattle. He has responsibility in 7 locations in 3 states. On the brink of moving to Puerto Rico this all worked out. We are thrilled to have all of the Hogans and Armstrongs, including their dogs together in Seattle. Tristan went to Las Vegas to help with the move. Everyone arrived safely after some quick planning and arranging. Funny highlights- as the furniture got moved out of the Las Vegas home Malachi had nothing to hold on to as he cruised around the house so he became more daring and confident in his walking. He also now has three words and a few signs in baby sign language. Once in Seattle Scout had to lay down some ground rules to newcomers, Pete and Malachi. Scout is not interested in sharing the #1 in cuteness spot with either of them. The Armstrong house in LV is on the market and they will be looking for an apartment in Seattle, probably near Tristan and Elizabeth as that is also near Gabe’s work. Tristan and Gabe have enjoyed golf together in LV and Seattle in the past week. Tristan and Elizabeth hosted a dinner party for 10 to celebrate the Armstrong arrival. What a great big brother. Guess where we are going as soon as we can in May?
So during the wee small hours Weds. morning the ship stopped rocking and I was vaguely aware that we must be in Cádiz. Many watched the docking from the top of the ship. We were extremely well prepared for Spain through several great lectures by a UVA faculty who was on the ship just through Spain. He has written 13 books related to Spain and has been knighted by King Juan Carlos. We had drinks with him and his wife in the evenings in the faculty lounge with more tips on dining and enjoying. We have covered Spain’s history as well as its culture and great artists. Once in Spain we saw 4 cities. The quick summary is that we went to each city, had a tour, saw a cathedral and/or palace and/or mosque, had paella everywhere, great coffee, lots of tinto (red wine) and got to know several faculty couples and lots of students.
The detailed summary follows. First stop the port of Cádiz, Hóg and I took the Big Red Bus tour for a city orientation then went back to the areas that we liked best. We spoke to some teachers who were demonstrating in front of their school. They are being asked to work more hours and do not want to, sounds familiar. Had a nice lunch at Casa Lazo. The art on the wall was a black and white photo of a single pig. His relatives were on the menu. We did try the boar as well as sardines, dried tuna loin, always wonderful olives and cerveza.
The second day we took off in two buses for a three city trip to Seville, Córdoba and Grenada. We liked Seville best, due to its age and charm.
First stop in Seville was the Plaza de España, an enormous building from the 1929 Exhibition, lunch at Hosteria Del Laurel, followed by Santa Maria Cathedral, the third largest in the world and the largest in Gothic style. It took 100 years to build and certainly had us thinking of Pillars of the Earth. Christopher Columbus, or at least part of him, is buried there. He was moved numerous times after his death. Many churches began as Muslim and were shifted to Catholic. They are proud of the coexistence of Muslims, Christians and Jews in Spain now but acceptance was not always there. Lunch was excellent, many courses in a charming place, dried herbs, garlic braids and hams hanging high. We drove to Córdoba and checked into our hotel next. Walked a bit in the city and had dinner in our hotel. The students find the bars and stay out late. So far we hang with the faculty but have not stayed out late. We have been asked to come along and will definitely get to it. My nick name for some is M2, for Mom #2. Friday morning we had a guided tour through the walled city. All enjoyed the Mezquita, a mosque intended to surpass all other mosques in grandeur, the Alcázar constructed in 1300s and the medieval Jewish quarter. Hóg and I had great coffee at El Caballo Rojo. Best event, a student asked me if I were an artist because I was sketching for my drawing class. Loved that! Next we drove to Grenada and checked into another hotel. Dinner was there and quite good. This morning we toured the Alhambra, the most popular sight in Spain, building began in the 13th century. Today the fortress and the royal palace remain. The king’s area and the queen’s area in the private section are the most spectacular. The king had four wives. The first one to present a son was the recognized queen, unless an “accident” befell that son and then the one to present the next son was recognized. Watch your back, tough times for charity. After lunch we drove back to the ship and departed.
We are underway and feeling the waves again, in fact, I felt them for days on land too; the sea to land transition is more than anticipated. Tomorrow we stop for fuel in Gibraltar. It takes six hours but we cannot leave the ship. Fuel is hugely expensive and we use 2000 gallons per hour. The ship runs largely on autopilot and only two people are actually up there piloting. Our bridge tour was very interesting. Extended families have not been assigned yet. We only have a day until Morocco and they will be cramming in the prep. I do answer all emails so please write if you want to. I can add you to my contacts easily that way too. If you sign up as a friend of the blog you will be notified when entries are posted. Otherwise, just check once in a while. Miss you all but having a great time.
(Uploading pictures to the blog is internet time-consuming, especially when activity levels are high. We still intend to post pictures as we go but we may miss sometimes.)