Oh my, South Africa was my favorite port so far for so many reasons! As with Spain, we are fortunate to have many people with South African connections on board and they did a wonderful job of preparing us for the port. As I told you one woman was Desmond Tutu’s Personal Assistant for 22+ years. She was directly involved in the Truth and Reconciliation Commission. After Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 27 years and finally freed, the commission met in order to promote healing for the country. Over 2200 stories were collected of people who suffered from the apartheid system. There was finally acknowledgement that these atrocities happened. Mandela was elected President. After Mandela resigned and Mbeki was elected there was great hope for the future and now there are massive disappointments. Money that was to be used to provide housing, education and services for people was used in the arms deals, arms that were not needed or used. One of our professors is very involved in exposing this. 1000 people per day of dying of AIDS though many are still AIDS denialists. There has been some progress. A leading judge has gone public about his AIDS. A new drug has been successful in stemming the automatic transmission of AIDS from mother to child. 18% of the children of South Africa are AIDS orphans. The population of South Africa is 8% white, 14% colored, and 78% black. Colored is the term they use for the lighter skinned often more middle class people who resulted from the intermarriage of white slave owners and their Indonesian and Malay slaves. The unemployment rate is 38-40%. The education system is three leveled, paralleling the racial breakdown. Math and science were first introduced in the black schools in 1992. There is so much more to share but that will wait.
We had one day in Cape Town before going on our four day safari. Our ship pulled right up to the V & A Waterfront (Victoria and Albert). It looked a lot like Baltimore. Hóg and I enjoyed some shopping, good coffee finally, beer at the German Beer Garden, early dinner at Quay Four, and then a night at the local theater to see Pictures of You. We were guests of the local opera season director, well known to our program because of his previous SAS voyages.
Early the next morning we headed out for safari, two flights and two rides later we arrived at Manyeleti Game Reserve. The second airport, Hoedspruit, had a terminal the size of one living room, two couches and 2 chairs. Manyeleti was the most delightful place. Everything was thought of for us, quite a luxury camping experience. Our tent was enormous, king sized bed with mosquito netting, sofa, full bathroom with double shower. In the morning guests are awakened by a drum beat at 5:30. Shortly after that your coffee, tea or cocoa are brought to your tent with rusks, carried on the head of the server. At 6:00 a.m. the game drives depart. We were on the roads of the reserve for 3+ hours. A second drive went out daily from 4:30 until 7:30 or 8:00. In between we would eat, nap, swim in the pool and relax. No drive was ever disappointing. We saw a dazzle of zebras, a herd of buffalo, numerous giraffes, a parade of elephants and finally, after searching and chasing, lions and leopards. In between there were impalas, rabbits, springbok, rhinos, hippos, wildebeests, waterbucks, bushbucks, vultures, golden orb spiders, many birds, heron, storks, owls, and the beautiful turquoise European roller. Only 20 people from our ship were on this trip which was perfect. We went out in three 4x4 vehicles with a ranger driving and a tracker sitting out over the left front headlight to spot.
The story of the male lions was the most extreme. We had been tracking them for several drives. The rangers talk to each other from car to car to give each other leads. We were told about the male lions and had to chase across the reserve to get to them; that ride was a hoot. We finally arrived and could just see the lions about 100 meters away. After a long period of watching and waiting they stood and did a roaring duet, back and forth to each other. Then they walked toward the water near us. Our ranger backed up to the water hole. Suddenly I saw the lion only 2 meters from our vehicle. He drank and then walked right behind our vehicle. The other lion did the same. We were scared and excited as were the other three girls in our vehicle. Most of us missed out pictures because we were so shocked. I was afraid to set off the flash so close to their eyes. The two lions then walked off. We all breathed again with relief and then moved on. We talked about it for the rest of the evening and back at the camp bar with the others. The energy after the drives was exciting as we all shared stories of our finds. On the last morning we finally caught up with the elusive leopard and her two cubs after a very patient waiting period. Again they walked very close to our vehicle, this time we got the pictures. We totally loved the safari experience.
Back at the camp we enjoyed gourmet meals provided by Mama G (Gladys). All meal times are announced by drum beat. Mama G has moved around among the different camps and they are thrilled now to have her at Manyeleti. Breakfast was made to order for each guest. Lunch and dinner were both three courses, displayed beautifully. Two great dinners were ostrich on polenta and lamb shanks in a wine reduction with mashed potatoes and vegetables. Guess what, those little ears of pickled corn actually start out fresh! I could go on and on about the food but I will tell you more when I see you. It is hard to return to ship cuisine after this treat.
Others on ship reported service experiences as well as other safaris. Many students went to the townships. Don’t think townships as in the USA. These are shantytowns. If I remember correctly, the current euphemism is ‘unauthorized settlements.’ These are very poor sections right outside of Cape Town. People live in single room homes made of corrugated metal and scrap wood. Their homes are much smaller than our tents were. 1.6 million people live in Cape Flats. The situation is embarrassing to the country and critical but those who live here do indicate that it is improving slowly. South Africa is known as the Mother Country because it takes nine months for anything to happen. Elections on April 22 will be significant for the future.
We love hearing from you. Messages from home are very special. If I have not written to you I may not have your email address here. If you write I promise to answer.
We had one day in Cape Town before going on our four day safari. Our ship pulled right up to the V & A Waterfront (Victoria and Albert). It looked a lot like Baltimore. Hóg and I enjoyed some shopping, good coffee finally, beer at the German Beer Garden, early dinner at Quay Four, and then a night at the local theater to see Pictures of You. We were guests of the local opera season director, well known to our program because of his previous SAS voyages.
Early the next morning we headed out for safari, two flights and two rides later we arrived at Manyeleti Game Reserve. The second airport, Hoedspruit, had a terminal the size of one living room, two couches and 2 chairs. Manyeleti was the most delightful place. Everything was thought of for us, quite a luxury camping experience. Our tent was enormous, king sized bed with mosquito netting, sofa, full bathroom with double shower. In the morning guests are awakened by a drum beat at 5:30. Shortly after that your coffee, tea or cocoa are brought to your tent with rusks, carried on the head of the server. At 6:00 a.m. the game drives depart. We were on the roads of the reserve for 3+ hours. A second drive went out daily from 4:30 until 7:30 or 8:00. In between we would eat, nap, swim in the pool and relax. No drive was ever disappointing. We saw a dazzle of zebras, a herd of buffalo, numerous giraffes, a parade of elephants and finally, after searching and chasing, lions and leopards. In between there were impalas, rabbits, springbok, rhinos, hippos, wildebeests, waterbucks, bushbucks, vultures, golden orb spiders, many birds, heron, storks, owls, and the beautiful turquoise European roller. Only 20 people from our ship were on this trip which was perfect. We went out in three 4x4 vehicles with a ranger driving and a tracker sitting out over the left front headlight to spot.
The story of the male lions was the most extreme. We had been tracking them for several drives. The rangers talk to each other from car to car to give each other leads. We were told about the male lions and had to chase across the reserve to get to them; that ride was a hoot. We finally arrived and could just see the lions about 100 meters away. After a long period of watching and waiting they stood and did a roaring duet, back and forth to each other. Then they walked toward the water near us. Our ranger backed up to the water hole. Suddenly I saw the lion only 2 meters from our vehicle. He drank and then walked right behind our vehicle. The other lion did the same. We were scared and excited as were the other three girls in our vehicle. Most of us missed out pictures because we were so shocked. I was afraid to set off the flash so close to their eyes. The two lions then walked off. We all breathed again with relief and then moved on. We talked about it for the rest of the evening and back at the camp bar with the others. The energy after the drives was exciting as we all shared stories of our finds. On the last morning we finally caught up with the elusive leopard and her two cubs after a very patient waiting period. Again they walked very close to our vehicle, this time we got the pictures. We totally loved the safari experience.
Back at the camp we enjoyed gourmet meals provided by Mama G (Gladys). All meal times are announced by drum beat. Mama G has moved around among the different camps and they are thrilled now to have her at Manyeleti. Breakfast was made to order for each guest. Lunch and dinner were both three courses, displayed beautifully. Two great dinners were ostrich on polenta and lamb shanks in a wine reduction with mashed potatoes and vegetables. Guess what, those little ears of pickled corn actually start out fresh! I could go on and on about the food but I will tell you more when I see you. It is hard to return to ship cuisine after this treat.
Others on ship reported service experiences as well as other safaris. Many students went to the townships. Don’t think townships as in the USA. These are shantytowns. If I remember correctly, the current euphemism is ‘unauthorized settlements.’ These are very poor sections right outside of Cape Town. People live in single room homes made of corrugated metal and scrap wood. Their homes are much smaller than our tents were. 1.6 million people live in Cape Flats. The situation is embarrassing to the country and critical but those who live here do indicate that it is improving slowly. South Africa is known as the Mother Country because it takes nine months for anything to happen. Elections on April 22 will be significant for the future.
We love hearing from you. Messages from home are very special. If I have not written to you I may not have your email address here. If you write I promise to answer.
Great post! Great stories, thank you!! Did Hog volunteer to take the mid-term? (Just to put all the other kids in the garbage can, of course.) It's snowing again in Seattle, sheesh!
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