We have just spent six full days in China. The greatest experiences were walking on the Great Wall and seeing the Terra Cotta Warriors. China is full of so much history that you see it and experience it everywhere. The trip fit perfectly with my class on the Qin and the Han Dynasties. Our days were so packed that I will not even try to tell you all that we did, just the highlights and some impressions. We were there for the 50th anniversary of the Chinese taking over Tibet, the 30th anniversary of China opening up and not just being a closed Communist society, and the 20th anniversary of the massacre at Tiananmen Square. We arrived in Hong Kong on March 29. China runs under two systems as agreed to when Hong Kong was returned to China in 1997. Hong Kong has its own currency, rules, regulations and passports. It has autonomy except in foreign affairs and national defense. The US maintains “strategic ambiguity” with the Peoples Republic of China and Taiwan. We needed to recognize the PRC; but we still maintain defense of Taiwan which China hates. What a huge and interesting port. We entered from the ship directly into a shopping mall, how is that for marketing? Hóg and I and our traveling group did not spend time in Hong Kong. Instead we traveled directly to the airport for a flight to Beijing. Beijing, the capitol, has eight counties and is the size of Belgium. That night we had a dinner of Peking duck. Besides the delicious main dish that you have seen with the pancakes, scallions and plum sauce we had numerous duck side dishes, including duck feet (crunchy).
The second day was our Great Wall adventure. Sections of the wall were started as early as 656 BC, before the states of the area were united. In the Qin Dynasty when the first emperor, Qin Shi Huang took control he conquered his internal rivals and then ordered that the wall be repaired, connected and extended to keep out nomads. It took ten years to complete this work. Dealing with nomads is a defining theme in Chinese history; Qin did not want to intermarry or have diplomatic relations so he ordered the wall to demonstrate superiority. The wall was repaired and the look changed to the more symmetric block pattern look that we know today during the Ming dynasty. The original wall in Beijing was almost 4000 miles so you choose a section to visit and you start climbing. We climbed the Ju Rong Guan section. We were walking up with one young student from Puerto Rico when it started to snow. She had never seen snow before and she just lit up. Of course, we took that picture, another SAS memorable moment! After walking until we could go no further we found a vendor selling “I walked the Great Wall” t-shirts. I had to have one, I earned it, but how does she get there every day?
We visited the Summer Palace where the Royal Family takes summer vacations. It was built in 1750, razed in 1860 and rebuilt in 1886. It is a beautiful, serene and relaxing place to visit. We viewed the Birds Nest and the Water Cube from the 2008 Olympics but only from a distance. That night a small group went to an acrobatic show. Juggler, contortionists, a slack wire balancing act, and the finale was twelve girls riding one bicycle. We found our way to dinner at a local place where one student ordered pigs’ fallopian tubes (chewy). Lisa tried to order a chicken dish and was told it’s too hot for you, she said to make it less hot and was told it’s not good when it’s not hot. She then tried to order a pork dish and the girl said no, you wanted chicken. Communication without a common tongue can be very entertaining.
Our final day in Beijing started with a trip to Tiananmen Square, the largest public space in the world. Our guide was not allowed to talk to us about the events of June 1989. It seems clear that our interport speaker from China had to get her materials cleared by the government too. The loop TV on ship did play the Frontline documentary The Tank Man, which showed the horrible sequence of events that led to over 2000 people being gunned down by their own troops. The Chinese Red Cross reported that 2600 civilians were killed but was forced to retract that and state that 200+ were killed. These events and what followed bring out all of the issues in modern day China. The government response to the repeated protests was that they would not stop the economic reform but they would stop the political reform. Today the state does not control all of the businesses as it once did. Individuals do. So there are millionaire capitalists, enjoying a new era. However, many subjects are taboo and censuring is everywhere. China has 30,000 internet police. Google is highly censured in China, see Tiananmen Square in China vs. US (not that you can but the difference is clear). People in rural areas are very poor with no way to earn more than a subsistence living. Some family members leave their rural families for the city to work. This way they may be able to pay for the education of a child at home. The city jobs are often factory jobs. Healthy young workers are recruited to live in dormitories and work seven days a week, thirteen hours per day for $120 per month. They get no sick pay, no compensation for injuries and no pension. They breathe in toxic dust without protection. Within 5-7 years they quit or get fired and many more people are waiting to fill the jobs.
We walked through the Forbidden City of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is the largest of China’s existing imperial palaces and the former residence of 24 emperors. Entrance to commoners was forbidden. The final stop in Beijing was the Temple of Heaven, a beautiful example of traditional Chinese architecture. I loved this place. Retirees have day passes and go there to share company, play cards, games, to dance and relax. I danced with them and tried a game and thoroughly enjoyed it. Our senior centers could learn from the Temple of Heaven.
We flew to Xian and went straight to an incredible dumpling banquet, way more than we could eat! Our guide in Xian was delightful but certainly not free to talk about all subjects. After a morning trip to the Lesser Wild Goose Pagoda and Xian History Museum, we went to see the famous Terra Cotta Warriors. Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor, had them built so that he could continue his conquests after his death. Over 5000 life sized warriors have been uncovered since their discovery by four farmers in mid 1970’s. They stand where they were found, not fully excavated; buildings have been built around them to create today’s tourist centers. Excavation continues. The first night in Xian featured dinner and a Tang Dynasty dance show.
The final day in Xian started with a calligraphy lesson which I thoroughly enjoyed and will keep working on. Our Chinese calligraphy teacher has studied for 30 years and could work at it for 30 more. There are 5 forms of calligraphy (think cursive and printing and three more). We worked with brushes and black paint and emulated his strokes. On the final day we also saw a Confucian Museum where the tablets of the 13 classic books as well as numerous other art relics are on display, the Bell Tower, the People’s Square, and the Han Yang Ling Museum, where thousands more buried terra cotta warriors and animals have been partially excavated but these are in miniature. There is so much more to tell, again, but it will have to wait.
The experience of China is a lot to think about. The cities are very clean and people are industrious and friendly. We did not travel in rural areas that tell a different story. Would anyone in government approve this writing to be sent out? It was a busy trip with so much more to know.
Lisa developed pneumonia by the time we returned to the ship & received medical care as soon as we boarded. She is doing well & recovering. (She was well enough to write the blog to this point so she really is doing OK.)
I went on our next excursion without Lisa, so now you will get the last day in China from Hóg’s perspective. I went on a trip with about 40 other SAS folks to the city of Suzhou. We first went to the university & then to The Master of Nets Garden, The Humble Administrator’s Garden & The Lingering Garden. We also had a boat ride on the canals for about an hour. This area seemed to be very focused on Confucianism & Taoism even though the country is communist. I have always thought that if I ever were to accept philosophical structure to my life it would be Taoist & these gardens have only affirmed that. They were beautiful, serene & understated. The only negative is that they are so appealing, they are tourist attractions & the serenity is often lost amidst the hustle & bustle of the visitors.
I have purposely avoided much of the news while we have been on this voyage but I do know that the worldwide economy still sucks & the G20 summit in London is going on. After seeing all the high rises in the cities we’ve stayed or passed through, I think I would buy stock in an elevator company that services the Chinese market. Whatever the market may do, the people will still have to get home & home is an elevator ride.
The second day was our Great Wall adventure. Sections of the wall were started as early as 656 BC, before the states of the area were united. In the Qin Dynasty when the first emperor, Qin Shi Huang took control he conquered his internal rivals and then ordered that the wall be repaired, connected and extended to keep out nomads. It took ten years to complete this work. Dealing with nomads is a defining theme in Chinese history; Qin did not want to intermarry or have diplomatic relations so he ordered the wall to demonstrate superiority. The wall was repaired and the look changed to the more symmetric block pattern look that we know today during the Ming dynasty. The original wall in Beijing was almost 4000 miles so you choose a section to visit and you start climbing. We climbed the Ju Rong Guan section. We were walking up with one young student from Puerto Rico when it started to snow. She had never seen snow before and she just lit up. Of course, we took that picture, another SAS memorable moment! After walking until we could go no further we found a vendor selling “I walked the Great Wall” t-shirts. I had to have one, I earned it, but how does she get there every day?
We visited the Summer Palace where the Royal Family takes summer vacations. It was built in 1750, razed in 1860 and rebuilt in 1886. It is a beautiful, serene and relaxing place to visit. We viewed the Birds Nest and the Water Cube from the 2008 Olympics but only from a distance. That night a small group went to an acrobatic show. Juggler, contortionists, a slack wire balancing act, and the finale was twelve girls riding one bicycle. We found our way to dinner at a local place where one student ordered pigs’ fallopian tubes (chewy). Lisa tried to order a chicken dish and was told it’s too hot for you, she said to make it less hot and was told it’s not good when it’s not hot. She then tried to order a pork dish and the girl said no, you wanted chicken. Communication without a common tongue can be very entertaining.
Our final day in Beijing started with a trip to Tiananmen Square, the largest public space in the world. Our guide was not allowed to talk to us about the events of June 1989. It seems clear that our interport speaker from China had to get her materials cleared by the government too. The loop TV on ship did play the Frontline documentary The Tank Man, which showed the horrible sequence of events that led to over 2000 people being gunned down by their own troops. The Chinese Red Cross reported that 2600 civilians were killed but was forced to retract that and state that 200+ were killed. These events and what followed bring out all of the issues in modern day China. The government response to the repeated protests was that they would not stop the economic reform but they would stop the political reform. Today the state does not control all of the businesses as it once did. Individuals do. So there are millionaire capitalists, enjoying a new era. However, many subjects are taboo and censuring is everywhere. China has 30,000 internet police. Google is highly censured in China, see Tiananmen Square in China vs. US (not that you can but the difference is clear). People in rural areas are very poor with no way to earn more than a subsistence living. Some family members leave their rural families for the city to work. This way they may be able to pay for the education of a child at home. The city jobs are often factory jobs. Healthy young workers are recruited to live in dormitories and work seven days a week, thirteen hours per day for $120 per month. They get no sick pay, no compensation for injuries and no pension. They breathe in toxic dust without protection. Within 5-7 years they quit or get fired and many more people are waiting to fill the jobs.
We walked through the Forbidden City of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is the largest of China’s existing imperial palaces and the former residence of 24 emperors. Entrance to commoners was forbidden. The final stop in Beijing was the Temple of Heaven, a beautiful example of traditional Chinese architecture. I loved this place. Retirees have day passes and go there to share company, play cards, games, to dance and relax. I danced with them and tried a game and thoroughly enjoyed it. Our senior centers could learn from the Temple of Heaven.
We flew to Xian and went straight to an incredible dumpling banquet, way more than we could eat! Our guide in Xian was delightful but certainly not free to talk about all subjects. After a morning trip to the Lesser Wild Goose Pagoda and Xian History Museum, we went to see the famous Terra Cotta Warriors. Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor, had them built so that he could continue his conquests after his death. Over 5000 life sized warriors have been uncovered since their discovery by four farmers in mid 1970’s. They stand where they were found, not fully excavated; buildings have been built around them to create today’s tourist centers. Excavation continues. The first night in Xian featured dinner and a Tang Dynasty dance show.
The final day in Xian started with a calligraphy lesson which I thoroughly enjoyed and will keep working on. Our Chinese calligraphy teacher has studied for 30 years and could work at it for 30 more. There are 5 forms of calligraphy (think cursive and printing and three more). We worked with brushes and black paint and emulated his strokes. On the final day we also saw a Confucian Museum where the tablets of the 13 classic books as well as numerous other art relics are on display, the Bell Tower, the People’s Square, and the Han Yang Ling Museum, where thousands more buried terra cotta warriors and animals have been partially excavated but these are in miniature. There is so much more to tell, again, but it will have to wait.
The experience of China is a lot to think about. The cities are very clean and people are industrious and friendly. We did not travel in rural areas that tell a different story. Would anyone in government approve this writing to be sent out? It was a busy trip with so much more to know.
Lisa developed pneumonia by the time we returned to the ship & received medical care as soon as we boarded. She is doing well & recovering. (She was well enough to write the blog to this point so she really is doing OK.)
I went on our next excursion without Lisa, so now you will get the last day in China from Hóg’s perspective. I went on a trip with about 40 other SAS folks to the city of Suzhou. We first went to the university & then to The Master of Nets Garden, The Humble Administrator’s Garden & The Lingering Garden. We also had a boat ride on the canals for about an hour. This area seemed to be very focused on Confucianism & Taoism even though the country is communist. I have always thought that if I ever were to accept philosophical structure to my life it would be Taoist & these gardens have only affirmed that. They were beautiful, serene & understated. The only negative is that they are so appealing, they are tourist attractions & the serenity is often lost amidst the hustle & bustle of the visitors.
I have purposely avoided much of the news while we have been on this voyage but I do know that the worldwide economy still sucks & the G20 summit in London is going on. After seeing all the high rises in the cities we’ve stayed or passed through, I think I would buy stock in an elevator company that services the Chinese market. Whatever the market may do, the people will still have to get home & home is an elevator ride.
If you guys are intrigued by China, you should check out James Fallow's writings over the past few months in the Atlantic Monthly (www.theatlantic.com). He has been there for the past three years or so, and has a lot of interesting insights into the "dichotomy" that is modern China.
ReplyDelete